![]() 10/31/2018 at 12:20 • Filed to: None | ![]() | ![]() |
Final word from the insurance company is $4400 for the Miata. Minus a $500 deductible, and $550ish to buy the car back. I’ve got $3,300 for a car. And spoiler alert the pickings are REAL SLIM this time of year. And now I have to find someplace to store this stupid car so I can yank the powertrain and interior and stuff out/off of it. Sadly the wheels are gone. I’d have loved to keep those.
![]() 10/31/2018 at 12:24 |
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You bought it back? With you lack of garage and driveway, I would have left it. Maybe you can get something for the hardtop, I don’t know.
![]() 10/31/2018 at 12:26 |
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$3300 for a car? Look no further! Besides everything, what could go wrong?
![]() 10/31/2018 at 12:26 |
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Exocet?
![]() 10/31/2018 at 12:27 |
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It's got a child seat in the back, so you KNOW it's dependable!
![]() 10/31/2018 at 12:29 |
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I also see an IS300 in the background!
Jake is already half way there!
![]() 10/31/2018 at 12:30 |
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Yeah, I would have left it unless i already had a place to store it. I haven’t seen the prior posts, were there some fancy parts to scavenge or something?
![]() 10/31/2018 at 12:32 |
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The wheels were real nice, but they're fucked now
![]() 10/31/2018 at 12:32 |
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I just saw that. Same with the hardtop
![]() 10/31/2018 at 12:32 |
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hardtop is garbage too, it detached itself from all it’s mounting points, so would need some skilled fibreglassering
![]() 10/31/2018 at 12:32 |
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Mismatched doors increase car value!
![]() 10/31/2018 at 12:33 |
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DID you buy it back? or you are just planning to buy it back?
becuase at that cost, plus the cost of somewhere secure to store it until warmer months, I think you’d be better off buying a miata powertrain at some later point.
![]() 10/31/2018 at 12:34 |
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Welp.
![]() 10/31/2018 at 12:34 |
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When I sold my dad’s Crown Vic a couple weeks back there was an abundance o f $1000 cars. Decent cars too for the money. With working AC and everything.
I remember 10 years or so ago, anything that would make the drive back home was worth at least $1000. Didn’t matter if it was rusted or 4 different colors. I sold a salvaged 2wd XJ Cherokee with 200k miles and both quarter panels destroyed for $1600. Now you can get a better vehicle for h alf that. Maybe get something cheap to get you thru winter till you have more money.
![]() 10/31/2018 at 12:38 |
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will not entertain lowball offers. I am aware of what i have
y ou can’t make this stuff up
![]() 10/31/2018 at 12:42 |
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Buy an old Toyota/Lexus luxobargey thing that was literally driven by grandparents to the grocery store and church on Sundays.
You could do a lot worse for $1800:
https://nh.craigslist.org/cto/d/1997-toyota-avalon/6728835447.html
OR keep the Saab dream alive- it’s turbo AND manual! $2100
https://nh.craigslist.org/cto/d/2005-saabt-167k/6724836305.html
![]() 10/31/2018 at 12:45 |
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Ahh shit, i missed that this happened! This sucks, sad to see another Miata go. What are your general plans for the car now?
![]() 10/31/2018 at 12:52 |
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Part out.
![]() 10/31/2018 at 12:53 |
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Planning on buying it back. The rare parts in this particular car are worth quite a bit to part it out. 6MT, torsen LSD, seats, center console, door cards, security system/locks, my aftermarket parts like the Koni sport shocks and MSM springs.
![]() 10/31/2018 at 12:55 |
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you live in an apartment, here’s hoping its on the first floor.
park it next to your front door for a day, strip EVERYTHING and haul it into the living room.
profit
![]() 10/31/2018 at 12:58 |
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Why are the wheels gone?
![]() 10/31/2018 at 13:02 |
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SE = lots of desirable parts. LSD, 6MT, interior bits and bobs. Hardtop is fixable, one of the frankenstein latches broke off but it’s fixable and not even strictly speaking necessary. Also has Koni Sports with MSM springs and a Racing Beat sway bar (probably bent tho) and OEM oversized brakes.
![]() 10/31/2018 at 13:02 |
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Given the demise of the Miata, might you consider a sensible and safe Swede? Nice examples of Saabs and Volvos can be had for a song!
https://wichita.craigslist.org/ctd/d/2004-saab-9-3-turbo-101k/6736897683.html
https://wichita.craigslist.org/cto/d/saabloaded/6724367210.html
https://tulsa.craigslist.org/cto/d/2007-volvo-s40/6726456358.html
https://tulsa.craigslist.org/ctd/d/2000-volvo-s70-glt-140k/6728326662.html
![]() 10/31/2018 at 13:04 |
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Wow that sucks. Well I gues that’s 3/4 the trade in value which from what I’ve heard is what you get then a car is totaled.
![]() 10/31/2018 at 13:07 |
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Yeah but... reliability.
![]() 10/31/2018 at 13:08 |
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They’re all trashed from the wreck. One is cracked almost in half and two others have flat spots ground into them from sliding on the pavement.
![]() 10/31/2018 at 13:21 |
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It’s not bad, actually. I’ve messed with some real beater NG Saabs and they’ll run forever with basic maintenance. Stay away from 2001/2002 Volvos and anything with a T6 and you should be good there, too. They’re certainly better than a Chevy swapped Jag, at least!
Or may I suggest a Park Avenue Ultra? You can probably buy the nicest one in the country for $3k.
![]() 10/31/2018 at 13:22 |
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I should also say stay away from any Saab with a V6, but I think they're all dead now anyway.
![]() 10/31/2018 at 13:24 |
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I loled at the number plate “La Chancla”.
![]() 10/31/2018 at 13:24 |
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Im sorry that happened :(
![]() 10/31/2018 at 13:26 |
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Damn, that sucks. You would think they would have given you more for the car. I was doing some searching. Maybe I found a couple of thins?
A bit out of your price range but maybe there’s some wiggle room? Not so Murdered Sofa?
https://www.cars.com/vehicledetail/detail/737559622/overview/
Could be a fun car?
https://www.cars.com/vehicledetail/detail/750827884/overview/
![]() 10/31/2018 at 13:34 |
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10 years ago was cash for clunkers which reduced the supply of end-of-life cars. That was a temporary bump in prices which is now settling back into the norm.
![]() 10/31/2018 at 13:56 |
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Here’s hoping you squeeze some money there.
Also, i ncoming pragmatism: buy an $ 1800 1996 Camry, hang on to it until spring and then sell it to fund whatever fun car you actually wanted. You can go a few months without a stick, you didn’t get much for the Miata and the lady needs a disposable car. Boom.
![]() 10/31/2018 at 14:29 |
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Do you have a listing for it yet? I’d probably be interested in some things. Considering we have the same car there’s bound to be something I could use out of it and would gladly buy.
![]() 10/31/2018 at 14:31 |
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Minus a $500 deductible, and $550ish to buy the car back.
The deductible I understand, but they
charge
you a fee
to
sell
you the car? On what planet does that make sense?
![]() 10/31/2018 at 14:32 |
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Look at how the door lines up. Its bent.
![]() 10/31/2018 at 14:34 |
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Not yet. I’ll post here when I do but I still don’t have the car back in my possession yet.
![]() 10/31/2018 at 14:36 |
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That is the most overpriced base model lesabre I’ve ever seen. Holy hell. Maybe if it had half those miles?
![]() 10/31/2018 at 14:43 |
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You would think they would have given you more f or the car.
they basically give you “market value” for the car, not “replacement value.”
![]() 10/31/2018 at 14:56 |
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No doors, no problem!
![]() 10/31/2018 at 15:07 |
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not the best replacement but uhhhh https://wichita.craigslist.org/cto/d/1984-pontiac-fiero/6736961949.html
![]() 10/31/2018 at 15:17 |
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After totaling the car, the insurer owns it. If he wants it back, he needs to buy it back from them. Makes total sense since they own it, and would otherwise be selling it at auction.
![]() 10/31/2018 at 15:59 |
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That’s a good point.
Random side note: Everytime I see a creeper van, I wonder how it made it thru Cash for Clunkers. They must of been inoperable at the time
![]() 10/31/2018 at 16:17 |
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Makes total sense since they own it, and would otherwise be selling it at auction.
How does it make total sense to charge him a fee for buying the car back?
The insurance company can likely get a better price for the car in the buy back over an auction. Tacking on a fee for that is crazy.
![]() 10/31/2018 at 16:23 |
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Oh, I didn’t read the $550 as a fee to buy it back, I read it as the cost of buying it back. I don’t think car is worth very much in its current state.
![]() 10/31/2018 at 16:33 |
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Although I don’t remember the specifics, you only got a few grand for the “clunker”, while still having to buy a new car. So it was for people that had a $ 2k car (and had owned it for a while) and were able to afford a $15 k+ car. So it surprises me how many cars were actually traded in on that. Other than parents giving one of their cars to a kid, and trading in the kid’s car for a new parent car , I have trouble imagining * likely* scenarios.
![]() 10/31/2018 at 16:36 |
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I’m sorry.
![]() 10/31/2018 at 16:57 |
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I still think their definition of “market value” is a bit fucked because you legitimately cannot find an ‘02SE for $4400.
![]() 10/31/2018 at 17:31 |
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KBB kind of falls apart for non mainstream vehicles.
![]() 10/31/2018 at 17:33 |
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Or in this case “CCC”
![]() 10/31/2018 at 18:21 |
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I was saying that the chassis was bent.
![]() 10/31/2018 at 22:42 |
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Don’t need the chassis. Y ou need the engine, trans, diff, suspension, and (IIRC) the powerplant frame among other small stuff to build an Exocet.
![]() 11/01/2018 at 08:32 |
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Looking over it again, I may have misinterpreted it. If $550 is the price to buy the car, then that does
makes sense.